A present-day pilgrimage
Olivia Ward-Jackson goes wassailing and finds solace in the West Country
The Romanesque cloister in a corner of the Harold Peto garden at Iford Manor [Angus Kirk]
I am standing by a lake, drinking from a wooden bowl of ale that’s being passed around a circle. It is the shortest day of the year, and as part of a Winter Solstice pilgrimage, I’m trying out the ancient pagan tradition of wassailing. As a first-time pilgrim, I doubt I managed to ward off any evil spirits – but it’s always worth a try.
Leading our 12-mile pilgrimage through Wiltshire and Somerset was Guy Hayward, a modern day sage and co-founder of the British Pilgrimage Trust. His aim is to encourage more people to go on pilgrimage in Britain, 500 years after Henry VIII and Thomas Cromwell banned the practice. By focusing on nature and heritage rather than Christianity, he hopes to widen the appeal.
Our day began early, so we could watch the sun rise over the river Frome beneath a statue of Britannia. After silently setting our intentions for the pilgrimage, we wandered over to the hillside garden at Iford Manor. Designed by Harold Peto, it has a charming Romanesque cloister and Japanese garden. From there, we walked all day, stopping occasionally to admire a castle or for a picnic lunch in a friendly church.
Open to people of all creeds and none, Hayward’s pilgrimages blend pagan and Christian traditions. At one point, we were asked to whisper into an ancient willow tree, and another time, to dunk our heads into the freezing cold holy well at St John’s church in Frome, where our journey ended. A Cambridge University choral scholar, Hayward kept our spirits up with chants and local folk songs.
One highlight of our walk was the idyllic 13th century Church of St Mary at Orchardleigh with views onto a lake. Another was the stone door of All Saints Church in Lullington, depicting two beasts devouring the tree of life, with delightful animal heads adorning its outer arch. Two frisky llamas added a touch of drama to the walk, chasing our group across a field.
The north door of All Saints’ Church in Lullington depicts two beasts devouring the tree of life [Wikimedia Commons]
But most of all, I found solace in walking. It is so rare to spend an entire day outdoors in our frantic internet age, and I returned to London feeling fulfilled and energised, ready for another week at the office. I’d also made new friends of all ages, and the day ended with warm farewells across a marble font. Despite not being religious, I can’t help feeling that the medieval pilgrims were onto something.
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Follow Olivia Ward-Jackson on Twitter: @Olivia_WJ98
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